C O L D
C O M F O R T
With a growing number of pleasure yachts embarking on high-latitude cruises in the polar regions, proper planning and training are essential to ensure a safe voyage in some of the world's most challenging waters
WORDS: MATT HAVERCROFT
If the thought of embarking on a high-latitude cruise sounds appealing – braving freezing temperatures, icebergs and barely charted waters – you're not alone. Emboldened by a growing awareness of the beauty of the polar regions, retreating sea ice and yachts marketed as high-latitude vessels, an increasing number of recreational sailors are venturing into Arctic and Antarctic waters in search of a boundary-pushing adventure. These include destinations such as Greenland, Svalbard, Alaska, Patagonia, the Northwest Passage and Antarctica.
But, while that polar voyage might sound appealing on paper (and look great on Instagram), it's important to remember that navigating these waters still comes with significant risks. 'There’s a perception that global warming has made high-latitude sailing more accessible and safer. But this is not necessarily the case, and the reasons are complex,' says Andrew Wilkes, co-author of the Polar Yacht Guide and author of Arctic and Northern Waters for the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation. 'Glaciers slowly make their way to sea, calve and produce icebergs. Higher temperatures increase this activity. The formation and duration of sea ice, that is ice formed at sea, depends on the sea temperature – as this rises, it delays the formation of new ice and existing ice sheets break up into smaller, relatively mobile, ice floes.'
GETTING PREPARED
While ice might be one of the obvious hazards, Andrew adds that high-latitude sailors also need to be prepared for every eventuality when cruising into off-grid waters. 'Shore-based help may not be available or take a long time to arrive,' he says. 'Yachts, therefore, need to be totally self-sufficient. This includes having the spares and skills to repair the vessel (its structure, rigging, mechanicals, electricals, etc) and deal with medical needs and emergencies.'
Then there are the ship’s stores, fuel and victualling to consider, with cruises often taking much longer than planned. 'In the old days, this could be as long as a year or two!' adds Andrew.
Having completed numerous voyages to the Arctic and sub-Antarctic aboard his 56ft steel gaff cutter, Annabel J, Andrew says it's also important to remember these are poorly documented waters: 'Charts (paper and electronic) are often based on old and sometimes inaccurate information. Soundings may be sparse or non-existent. Uncharted, dangerous rocks are quite common. Charts do not necessarily use the WGS84 datum used by GPS.
'Polar sailing requires sailors to apply skills which were common to previous generations but have become less frequently used in modern times,' he adds. 'These include how to navigate using different sources of information, how to "read" potential anchorages for good shelter and holding, how to conserve resources and how to be closer to nature.'
East Greenland.
East Greenland.
RESPECTING NATURE AND PEOPLE
For those who fail to prepare properly, the consequences can be severe, with a minority of poorly prepared voyages forced to call the rescue services to assist. Those who do so shouldn’t expect a rapid response. In high latitudes, there are few resources to cover vast areas in dangerous conditions. Cruisers who do not follow best practice also risk endangering the local environment and wildlife, and promoting global warming – all of which are particularly sensitive issues in both the Arctic and Antarctic regions.
While the natural environment needs to be respected, Andrew says the same applies to the history, culture and people of these destinations. 'Many important sites such as historical monuments, graves and huts are unprotected by officialdom,' he says. 'Some Arctic communities have just one or two shops and limited fuel supplies, which are replenished once or twice a year. Cruisers buying up six months' supplies of diesel or Mars bars may not be popular!'
"In off-grid waters, yachts need to be totally self-sufficient"
Concerned with the rise of poorly prepared voyages, Andrew joined a group of experienced high-latitude sailors to write the Polar Yacht Guide. This free-to-download guide is specifically designed for yachts, and split into three sections: safety of navigation and voyage planning for all polar waters, Arctic waters and Antarctic waters. Designed to complement existing regulations, such as the Polar Code, and pilot books, it gives a voluntary code of best practice to help pleasure yachts operate safely and responsibly in some of the world's most challenging environments.
Advice contained within the guide includes kit and supply lists, recommended voyage planning, environmental consideration and a sample yacht environmental protection plan. There is also a list of websites to help with researching and planning your Arctic or Antarctic voyage.
If the thought of embarking on a high-latitude cruise sounds appealing – braving freezing temperatures, icebergs and barely charted waters – you're not alone. Emboldened by a growing awareness of the beauty of the polar regions, retreating sea ice and yachts marketed as high-latitude vessels, an increasing number of recreational sailors are venturing into Arctic and Antarctic waters in search of a boundary-pushing adventure. These include destinations such as Greenland, Svalbard, Alaska, Patagonia, the Northwest Passage and Antarctica.
But, while that polar voyage might sound appealing on paper (and look great on Instagram), it's important to remember that navigating these waters still comes with significant risks. 'There’s a perception that global warming has made high-latitude sailing more accessible and safer. But this is not necessarily the case, and the reasons are complex,' says Andrew Wilkes, co-author of the Polar Yacht Guide and author of Arctic and Northern Waters for the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation. 'Glaciers slowly make their way to sea, calve and produce icebergs. Higher temperatures increase this activity. The formation and duration of sea ice, that is ice formed at sea, depends on the sea temperature – as this rises, it delays the formation of new ice and existing ice sheets break up into smaller, relatively mobile, ice floes.'
GETTING PREPARED
While ice might be one of the obvious hazards, Andrew adds that high-latitude sailors also need to be prepared for every eventuality when cruising into off-grid waters. 'Shore-based help may not be available or take a long time to arrive,' he says. 'Yachts, therefore, need to be totally self-sufficient. This includes having the spares and skills to repair the vessel (its structure, rigging, mechanicals, electricals, etc) and deal with medical needs and emergencies.'
Then there are the ship’s stores, fuel and victualling to consider, with cruises often taking much longer than planned. 'In the old days, this could be as long as a year or two!' adds Andrew.
Having completed numerous voyages to the Arctic and sub-Antarctic aboard his 56ft steel gaff cutter, Annabel J, Andrew says it's also important to remember these are poorly documented waters: 'Charts (paper and electronic) are often based on old and sometimes inaccurate information. Soundings may be sparse or non-existent. Uncharted, dangerous rocks are quite common. Charts do not necessarily use the WGS84 datum used by GPS.
'Polar sailing requires sailors to apply skills which were common to previous generations but have become less frequently used in modern times,' he adds. 'These include how to navigate using different sources of information, how to "read" potential anchorages for good shelter and holding, how to conserve resources and how to be closer to nature.'
East Greenland.
East Greenland.
RESPECTING NATURE AND PEOPLE
For those who fail to prepare properly, the consequences can be severe, with a minority of poorly prepared voyages forced to call the rescue services to assist. Those who do so shouldn’t expect a rapid response. In high latitudes, there are few resources to cover vast areas in dangerous conditions. Cruisers who do not follow best practice also risk endangering the local environment and wildlife, and promoting global warming – all of which are particularly sensitive issues in both the Arctic and Antarctic regions.
While the natural environment needs to be respected, Andrew says the same applies to the history, culture and people of these destinations. 'Many important sites such as historical monuments, graves and huts are unprotected by officialdom,' he says. 'Some Arctic communities have just one or two shops and limited fuel supplies, which are replenished once or twice a year. Cruisers buying up six months' supplies of diesel or Mars bars may not be popular!'
"In off-grid waters, yachts need to be totally self-sufficient"
Concerned with the rise of poorly prepared voyages, Andrew joined a group of experienced high-latitude sailors to write the Polar Yacht Guide. This free-to-download guide is specifically designed for yachts, and split into three sections: safety of navigation and voyage planning for all polar waters, Arctic waters and Antarctic waters. Designed to complement existing regulations, such as the Polar Code, and pilot books, it gives a voluntary code of best practice to help pleasure yachts operate safely and responsibly in some of the world's most challenging environments.
Advice contained within the guide includes kit and supply lists, recommended voyage planning, environmental consideration and a sample yacht environmental protection plan. There is also a list of websites to help with researching and planning your Arctic or Antarctic voyage.
THE IMPORTANCE OF TRAINING
For Andrew, education will always be preferable to regulation, as it motivates people to learn and inspires them to reach their full potential. 'Most sailors are free spirits and want to be safe and responsible without being told exactly what to do by legislation,' he says. 'Clever and enthusiastic people, given enough time, have taught themselves how to sail and even circumnavigate the globe. However, some form of formal training, such as the RYA Yachtmaster scheme, accelerates the learning process and reduces the number of gaps in a sailor’s knowledge.'
Many of the core competencies required for high-latitude sailing, such as passage planning, weather interpretation, risk management, watchkeeping, heavy-weather seamanship and self-sufficiency, are already embedded within the RYA training schemes. Collectively, these help to develop the key skills needed for ambitious offshore voyaging, taking students from competent coastal sailors to expedition leaders.
Andrew encourages would-be polar cruisers to work slowly towards that trip of a lifetime: 'A beginner will save a lot of time by going to a good sailing school and training to the Yachtmaster level. They might then go on to make offshore passages and cruise in progressively more challenging areas, such as the Western Isles of Scotland, the Faroe Islands, Alaska or the coast of Chile.
'It would be remiss of me not to suggest downloading the Polar Yacht Guide for free from the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation website, too!'
For Andrew, the need for greater education is not just a matter of protecting the personal safety of the sailors who embark on a high-latitude cruise, but also preserving the unique nature of these special places and our access to them. 'If yachtsmen and cruisers to these regions do not respect these issues, national governments, maritime authorities and insurance companies are likely to restrict or ban our freedom of navigation.' And that's where the adventure will truly end.
Recommended reading
• Arctic and Northern Waters, published by
the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation (RCCPF); rccpf.org.uk
• High Latitude Sailing by Bob Shepton
and Jon Amtrup (Adlard Coles, £30)
• Polar Yacht Guide rccpf.org.uk
For more details about the RYA's training courses, visit rya.org.uk/training
The high-latitude areas mapped in RCCPF’s Arctic and Northern Waters.
The high-latitude areas mapped in RCCPF’s Arctic and Northern Waters.
Crossing the Northwest Passage.
Crossing the Northwest Passage.
Andrew Wilkes.
Andrew Wilkes.
THE IMPORTANCE OF TRAINING
For Andrew, education will always be preferable to regulation, as it motivates people to learn and inspires them to reach their full potential. 'Most sailors are free spirits and want to be safe and responsible without being told exactly what to do by legislation,' he says. 'Clever and enthusiastic people, given enough time, have taught themselves how to sail and even circumnavigate the globe. However, some form of formal training, such as the RYA Yachtmaster scheme, accelerates the learning process and reduces the number of gaps in a sailor’s knowledge.'
The high-latitude areas mapped in RCCPF’s Arctic and Northern Waters.
The high-latitude areas mapped in RCCPF’s Arctic and Northern Waters.
Many of the core competencies required for high-latitude sailing, such as passage planning, weather interpretation, risk management, watchkeeping, heavy-weather seamanship and self-sufficiency, are already embedded within the RYA training schemes. Collectively, these help to develop the key skills needed for ambitious offshore voyaging, taking students from competent coastal sailors to expedition leaders.
Crossing the Northwest Passage.
Crossing the Northwest Passage.
Andrew encourages would-be polar cruisers to work slowly towards that trip of a lifetime: 'A beginner will save a lot of time by going to a good sailing school and training to the Yachtmaster level. They might then go on to make offshore passages and cruise in progressively more challenging areas, such as the Western Isles of Scotland, the Faroe Islands, Alaska or the coast of Chile.
'It would be remiss of me not to suggest downloading the Polar Yacht Guide for free from the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation website, too!'
For Andrew, the need for greater education is not just a matter of protecting the personal safety of the sailors who embark on a high-latitude cruise, but also preserving the unique nature of these special places and our access to them. 'If yachtsmen and cruisers to these regions do not respect these issues, national governments, maritime authorities and insurance companies are likely to restrict or ban our freedom of navigation.' And that's where the adventure will truly end.
Andrew Wilkes.
Andrew Wilkes.
Recommended reading
• Arctic and Northern Waters, published by the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation (RCCPF); rccpf.org.uk
• High Latitude Sailing by Bob Shepton and Jon Amtrup (Adlard Coles, £30)
• Polar Yacht Guide rccpf.org.uk
For more details about the RYA's training courses, visit rya.org.uk/training
How to get yourself ready for a polar cruise
Vaughan Marsh, RYA's Chief Instructor for Sail and Motor Cruising, explains how the RYA Yachtmaster scheme can help.
How to get yourself ready for a polar cruise
Vaughan Marsh, RYA's Chief Instructor for Sail and Motor Cruising, explains how the RYA Yachtmaster scheme can help.
So, you're confident in your seamanship, and thinking about embarking on that first polar cruise. However, it's important to understand what you will be dealing with in the icy wilds and be prepared for all eventualities.
'Without stating the obvious, it's cold, but, beyond that, there are icebergs you can see and smaller bits you can’t see as easily, as well as fog, fewer vessels for support and often very light winds,' says Vaughan. 'You need to be self-sufficient in a well-stocked, reliable vessel, with good radar – and, importantly, the knowledge to use it. A good lookout is essential, along with a clear plan, both when underway and at anchor, for dealing with ice. Finally, a good understanding of passage planning and access to ice reports is also vital, supported by as much research, preparation and training as possible.
'We provide training at many levels, from entry level to crossing an ocean. The theory courses are designed to support the practical courses. Between each level, there is a recommended experience level needed before progressing to the next course – the expectation being that the skills learnt are then put into practice by going boating. As students progress in schemes, the more ambitious cruise is still within comfort and knowledge levels.'
NEW WATERS, NEW LEARNINGS
Qualifications alone are not enough without experience, judgement and preparation. This is why lifelong learning and continued skills development are so important, with advanced cruising and offshore experience providing a foundation for future high-latitude ambitions.
'Qualifications are a good measure of your ability at that point in time – anyone who goes boating never stops learning and every situation is slightly different,' says Vaughan. 'It is about keeping your current levels of knowledge and practising the skills you already have, in addition to trying out new things. A new boat, a different current, a new berth, a changing breeze, a different passage and a new country are all opportunities that allow a seafarer to be interested in why things are different to last time, how to adapt and how to continue to enjoy time on the water.
'Equally, of course, a trip on the water that is firmly within your comfort zone, that does not stretch you, the vessel or the other people on board and that just allows you to enjoy that time on the water, shared with friends or on your own, can never be underestimated for your own wellbeing.'
